Cod, cabillaud in French (Gadus morhua), is the great white fish of the North Atlantic: very white, pearly flesh that separates into large, tender flakes. It is the French shopper's favourite fish at the counter and Iceland's flagship species. Here is what it really is, why it is also called morue, which cut to choose and how to cook it without ever getting it wrong.
What is cod?
A member of the gadid family, like saithe and haddock. Speckled green-brown back, white belly, a pale lateral line and a small barbel under the chin. It lives in the cold waters of the North Atlantic, from Norway to Canada, and Iceland is one of the leading cod-fishing nations in the world.
Its flesh is what makes it unique: very white, in large flakes that come apart at the touch of a fork, delicate and faintly sweet. That is also what makes it fragile when cooked.
Cabillaud or morue: what is the difference?
None, as far as the fish goes: it is the same species. The difference is on the plate. In France, cabillaud is the fresh fish, and morue the same fish once salted and dried - the one in brandade, accras or Portuguese bacalhau. In Quebec, morue is used for fresh cod too. With us, cabillaud always means fresh, never salted.
Where does our cod come from?
From the cold waters of Iceland, between 2 and 8 °C, where cod grows slowly and develops dense, firm flesh. Icelandic stocks are among the best managed in the world and the fishery is MSC certified.
The fish is bought at auction, cut in our workshop in Keflavík and shipped chilled: delivered to your door in 24 to 48 hours by Chronofresh, never frozen.
What does cod taste like?
Mild, fine, faintly sweet, with a melting texture in large flakes. It lacks the briny character of saithe, its firmer, cheaper cousin: cod is a fish of elegance rather than power, which loves gentle cooking and butter or cream sauces.
Is cod good for you?
It is one of the leanest fish there is: about 80 kcal and 18 g of protein per 100 g, under 1 g of fat. Rich in vitamin B12, iodine, selenium and phosphorus. Less omega-3 than salmon, but a fish everyone digests, children included, to put on the menu every week.
Loin, fillet, cheeks, tongues: which cut to choose?
| Cut | What it is | What for |
|---|---|---|
| Skinless loin | The thick part of the fillet, the prime piece | Oven, cream, papillote - anything that must stay whole |
| Skin-on loin | The same loin, skin kept | The pan: the skin protects the flesh and turns crisp |
| Portioned fillet | Thinner, already portioned | Papillote, quick oven, weeknight meals |
| Cheeks | The round muscles of the head, firm and pearly | Pan-fried, fricassee, skewers |
| Tongues | Tender, slightly gelatinous, an Icelandic speciality | Breaded and fried, Icelandic style |
Fresh cod has pearly, translucent flesh, firm and springy to the touch, and smells of the sea - never of ammonia. Cheeks and tongues are the most affordable cuts; the loin, the most sought-after.
How to cook cod
One rule, stricter still than for other white fish: do not overcook it. Its flesh goes from pearly to dry in a minute. It is ready as soon as it turns opaque and flakes under a fork - 52 to 55 °C at the core if you have a thermometer. Four methods, each detailed in a recipe (recipes are in French for now):
- In the oven - 200 °C, 12 minutes for a 3 cm loin, 15 beyond. The reference method. → Baked cod loin with lemon and herbs
- In the pan - 4 minutes skin side down without touching, 1 to 2 minutes in butter. Skin on, always. → Pan-fried cod loin, brown butter and lemon
- In cream - 180 °C, 15 to 18 minutes on a leek fondue. The sauce protects the flesh. → Baked cod loin in cream with leeks
- En papillote - 200 °C, 15 minutes in its parcel with vegetables. The lightest. → Cod en papillote with crunchy vegetables and lemon
Our cod recipes
- Baked cod loin with lemon and herbs - 20 minutes, the basic recipe.
- Pan-fried cod loin, brown butter and lemon - 15 minutes, crisp skin.
- Baked cod loin in cream with leeks - 35 minutes, the Sunday dish.
- Cod en papillote with crunchy vegetables and lemon - 30 minutes, light and no washing-up.
- Baked cod with new potatoes and carrots - all in one dish.
- Cod with lemon, garlic and chickpeas - the Mediterranean accent.
- Thai-style cod - when you want some heat.
Frequently asked questions about cod
How do you cook cod?
Gently and briefly: its delicate flesh falls apart fast. In the oven at 200 °C, 12 to 15 minutes for a loin; in a pan, 4 minutes skin side down then 1 to 2 minutes in butter; en papillote, 15 minutes; in cream, 15 to 18 minutes at 180 °C. It is done when the flesh turns from translucent to pearly-opaque and separates into large flakes under a fork.
How long do you cook a cod loin in the oven?
Allow 12 minutes at 200 °C for a loin 3 cm thick, 15 minutes beyond that. A thinner fillet cooks in 8 to 10 minutes. Take it out as soon as the centre is opaque: one minute too long and the flesh turns dry and stringy. With a thermometer, aim for 52 to 55 °C at the core.
How do you pan-fry cod without it falling apart?
Keep the skin on, dry the fish well and salt it 10 minutes ahead. Hot pan, a little oil, loin skin side down, and do not touch it for 4 minutes. Turn once, gently, add the butter and baste for 1 to 2 minutes. Cod that falls apart has almost always been turned too early or too often.
Cabillaud or morue: is it the same fish?
Yes, the same species, Gadus morhua. In France, cabillaud means the fresh fish and morue the same fish once salted and dried - the one in brandade, accras or Portuguese bacalhau. In Quebec, morue also means fresh cod. With us, cabillaud always means fresh.
Is cod good for you?
It is one of the leanest fish there is: about 80 kcal and 18 g of protein per 100 g, under 1 g of fat. It provides vitamin B12, iodine, selenium and phosphorus. Lower in omega-3 than salmon or Arctic char, it suits everyone, children included, and is very easy to digest.
What goes with cod?
Its mild flesh likes simple company: steamed or crushed potatoes, rice, leek fondue, spinach, small roasted vegetables. For a sauce, beurre blanc, lemon butter, cream, or just a drizzle of olive oil and lemon. Avoid anything that overpowers its delicate taste.
What are cod cheeks and cod tongues?
Two cuts prized in Iceland and long overlooked in France. The cheeks are the round muscles of the head: firm, pearly flesh close to a scallop, perfect pan-fried or in a fricassee. The tongues, softer and slightly gelatinous, are traditionally breaded and fried. Both cost less than the loin.
How do you cook frozen cod?
Ideally, thaw it for 12 hours in the fridge in its packaging, then cook it as fresh, drying the flesh well. In a hurry, it can go straight into a 180 °C oven en papillote, adding 6 to 8 minutes. Avoid pan-frying from frozen: the water it releases stops it from searing.
Cooking it this weekend? Our Icelandic cod loins are delivered chilled in 24 to 48 hours.